Hi I believe in a lot of cases buyers tend to over scope their guns to be sure they have enough scope. In a lot, of cases buyers would be way better off reading up on what rifle scope it is they want and what rifle scopes are on the market now that fills their needs.
By first reading up on there needs the hunter or shooter can get a better idea of the scope they want, without paying for a lot of frills. After reading a lot of rifle scope reviews on Amazon dot com, I have seen where some people were totally disgusted with the scope they bought. These buyers will not even be able to use the scope much because the basic power is too much. When hunting deer and small game at short range, where fast shots are needed and under two hundred yard shots are standard four power should be the max.
If I were doing a lot of short range of hunting, I would be seeking a compact scope with low power and finding better lens coating to help with clarity. I think a fixed four power with forty or fifty mil objective. I would like it to be set up to hit my shoulder perfect in this way speed the time finding the target.
Most army scopes or tactical scopes are set up for speed for this very purpose.
I have known hunters that use six power but these are guys who know their scopes and practice finding objects in the scope fast. The ways to do this is follow with your scope something fast and small and keep it in the center of the scopes field of view. I have done this and still use the idea to get used to a new scope. I try and follow a butterfly or small bird as it moves around in the trees. This exercise will help anyone a lot with speed of shots and having your scope on line as soon as the rifle is on your shoulder.
Having the speed of finding your game in your scope fast is way smarter than trying to save time by carrying a loaded gun.
The other problem is some people bought scopes without knowing what cross hairs they were getting or what they needed. What I have done to find the right crosshairs, for me is to go into a gun shop and view the different types of rifle scope cross hairs to see what worked for me.
One of the biggest eye openers in shooting for me was learning how peep sites worked. This system is a well thought idea to use the eye’s natural ability to center things in the field of view.
This thought fits perfectly with learning how to take a site picture when using iron sites.
In buying a rifle, scope you miss learning these things but the basics are still the same.
You need to have a scope the fits the gun and hits your shoulder in position. By this, I mean the field of view should be on target and, you should not have to move your head around to find the target. If you like the scope and gun. Consider you have to work to find the target in the scope, you will have a lot of work to change yourself in order successfully to hunt.
My grandfather had a long neck, and he was unusually tall, he had a piece added to the back of his gun stock to raise it, so he could use his scope. Most gun and scopes are set up to a normal sized persons shape. There are a lot of different ways to get the gun and scope to fit you. If needed, you can add more length to your gun stock by using a shoulder pad.
One more is going to higher scope mounts to correct this for you.
Objective Lens Size
The second number in the formula (4×40) is the diameter of the objective or front lens. The larger the objective lens, the more light that enters the scope, and the brighter the image.
You will certainly have to think about this before you buy a scope because if, you shoot in low levels of light often. Or if you need to count tines on your game having bigger front objective can mean a lot to you. For hunting elk where I need both more light and better magnification I bought a new Leupold scope. It is a Four to twelve power rifle scope with a fifty mil front objective. One thing you can check when buying a scope is where it will fit on your gun. This can also be set using the rear aperture of the scope on some most scopes.
What you want is to have a full view of your target when the gun hits your shoulder every time. I have seen it where some scopes I could only see a small circle in the center of the scope.
My favorite is a duplex cross hair similar to the 30-30 TV above. The reason I find it best is two fold. One it lets your eye center the target naturally. Two it lets you see all the target and cross hairs at the same time.
I would think the true mildot would work the same I have just never seen it as an option when buying a scope before.
Low power – (example: 1.5-6×32, 2-7×32) These rifle scopes are ideal at close range and for shooting moving targets. They provide the most effective light management and produce a brighter sight picture and wider field of view-even in low-light conditions and thick brush.
Medium power – (example: 3-9×40, 2.5-10×50) Select these rifle scopes for hunting big game at medium range.
High power – (example: 6-18×40, 6-24×40) These rifle scopes are best for target shooting, when the target is motionless and for varmints and other small game.
For long range shooting, the better options are the high power scopes with target range adjusters. I also like the Bullet drop compensator for this. I have seen and heard target range adjusters work perfect, but I have not had the pleasure of owning one.
I also found using a spotting scope worked well in these hunting conditions.
In long range scope choices, I found the longer scopes that set close to the barrel of the rifle are a significant advantage. Longer scopes that sit lower to the rifle barrel are easier to site in. This will leave you fewer variables to worry about.
Hunting and getting big game at three hundred yards and more was the ultimate feeling. I had the feeling I was better at hunting.
Knowing the long range capability of your gun makes sense because you can get more game. This happens because you are not restricted by your lack of knowledge. You get more game more often and it makes hunting way more enjoyable.